Interview With Wendy Brandes
Some of you may know Wendy Brandes as one of my readers, but did you also know she was a high-end jewelry designer??
How did you get your start?
The first pieces I designed were my wedding band and engagement ring in 2001. After that, I came up with a few more ideas and it snowballed into a business. I recently redesigned my engagement ring. The person who produced the first version for me discouraged me from going for my original vision. She thought it was too extreme. At the time, it probably WAS too extreme for me, but not anymore. Now I have the ring I envisioned.
Do you have any formal training?
Not in design, but I do have a graduate diamonds diploma from the Gemological Institute of America. The process of creating a piece is really very much like the editing work I used to do. You need to have sources and coordinate people's efforts. Communication is key. I used to manage the work of reporters and other editors. Now I manage the manufacturers' work.
Where do you get your inspiration from?
I am primarily inspired by interesting and notorious women. I think the jewelry is more thrilling when it's got a personality and a story to it. The collection that means the most to me is Vivat Regina, which is Latin for "Long Live the Queen." All the items in that collection are named after royal ladies. The non-royals get put in the It Girl collection. That collection's inspiration ranges from a legendary female pope to Wilma Flintstone. I also have a collection called Eden. That's inspired by a woman too: Mother Nature!
What is your design process?
I always have lots of queen ideas floating around in my mind. But I can't force it. I have to wait till something really connects me to the particular queen. I wanted to do something for the last queen of Korea, Queen Min, for a long time. I had an idea for a necklace but it didn't thrill me. Then a gem carver I work with showed me a piece of lemon quartz with a crane engraved on it. I realized this was what I need for Min. I got that stone and sat down with my favorite goldsmith to design a pagoda-shaped setting. Now I'm doing two more Queen Min styles: a dragon carving in lemon citrine and a koi carving in amethyst. It's totally different from my original concept.
Do you have a favorite piece that you've designed?
Usually the newest piece is my favorite. I'm excited for a big ring I'm doing with onyx and tsavorite (green garnet). Right now, I'm wearing the diamond version of my Lotus Flower Necklace a lot. This piece is smaller than what I usually wear, so I didn't think I'd be that into it, but it manages to catch the eye anyway. When I wear it, I always see people staring at my neck while they are talking to me. I have to be a walking advertisement for my own work so it's important that the pieces be noticeable. Of course, I wear my Anne Boleyn-inspired B initial pendant a lot. The first time I saw the painting of her wearing her initial necklace, I knew I had to one someday. I think I was about 10 at the time. That was my very first jewelry idea.
Who is your favorite jewelry designer?
Hans Holbein the Younger is mainly remembered as the court painter of Henry VIII, but he also designed jewelry for the nobility. He designed the jewelry, then painted portraits of the people wearing the jewelry. You can see his work in a book titled Tudor and Jacobean Jewelry by Diana Scarisbrick. Since we were just mentioning Anne Boleyn, I should point out that she was the second wife of Henry VIII. I'm big on the 16th century. I think of my pieces as modern antiques.
What celebrities embody your line's style? Has anyone famous worn any of your pieces?
My craziest celebrity experience was when Britney Spears ran off with my Borgia ring -- it had been borrowed for photo shoot for OK! Magazine. OK! later paid for it.
Lindsay Lohan has two of my poison rings: the Medici and the Victoria. My dream customers would include some actresses who have played queens: Helen Mirren, Kirsten Dunst and Cate Blanchett. They all have great style. And really, my jewelry is worn by women of all ages, from 20-somethings to 60-somethings. So that trio would be a good representation of my clientele.
What's next for your business?
I feel like this is my year to focus on editorial coverage and my gorgeous private clients. I have a big story coming out in the July issue of Marie Claire. It will be on newsstands June 10. Mark your calendars! Then I have a trunk show for private clients on June 12. People in the New York area who want to be invited can contact me at wbjewelry AT hotmail DOT com. The trunk shows are great fun. You get to hear the story about the queen who inspired your piece direct from me. There's also lots of Champagne. I always drink more Champagne than I should for someone who is working, so you never know -- you might get a Champagne-induced discount if you're very nice. Private clients are definitely where it is at for me this year. The retailers are suffering in this economy. If people are going to spend money, they want a special experience and that's what they get from a one-on-one interaction with the designer.
If you want to buy any pieces, you can get them at WendyBrandes.com, but be warned: you will foam at the mouth with lust and go bankrupt if you buy everything you want! And will someone please buy my the two stone ring shown above???
